As always, don’t push the tool into the wood, but let the wood come to the tool. ![]() This is not an easy technique to learn but very satisfying once you’ve got it, when three swings of the handle will remove the bulk of the waste in not many more seconds. Roll the tool slightly clockwise to pick up the cut, then ease the handle towards you or lower it. Using both the rest and the rim of the opening as a fulcrum, you start the cut at centre with the tool on its side, flute towards centre. By far the quickest method is to back-hollow with a spindle gouge, cutting away from centre at about two o’clock.įor this cut you need to keep the opening of the hollow small as you remove the bulk of the waste. You can remove the bulk of the waste by drilling (which is slow) or by using gouges or scrapers. When the endgrain is smooth, drill a depth hole slightly deeper than the diameter of the blank (photo 3). When using the point, only the bevel side should be in contact with the wood. ![]() Use the skew with long point down across the grain and then you can see what you’re doing. Now is a good time to find out how the wood is working with the tool you’ll be using to make the final shaping cuts.ĭon’t forget the endgrain (photo 2). On a square this size I use a skew chisel all the way, but you might feel more comfortable using a roughing gouge initially, before you grab the skew chisel for the final smoothing cuts. Even if the blank looks as though it’s running true it probably isn’t. Put a tenon on one end and a shoulder that butts up against the rim of the chuck jaws. But if you are new to hollowing into endgrain, there’s a good chance you’ll heave the blank out of the chuck, so for the most secure grip, turn the blank to a cylinder between centres. Longer jaws, like the Vicmarc Shark Jaws used here, will grip a square blank securely. If you shape the outside first, any outward pressure as you cut is likely to split the wood (remember that the grain lies parallel to the lathe axis).Īn ideal starting blank is about 50mm2 x 140mm long. When turning any hollowed endgrain project, hollow the inside before doing any external shaping so you retain as much strength as possible from the overall blank for as long as possible. The photo displays the tools I generally use for turning scoops. If the back of the bowl, where it meets the handle, is too steep, the grain is short and likely to break with any lateral force. Aesthetically this mass looks a lot better as a bead between the handle and the bowl rather than a very thick base to the bowl. There needs to be plenty of wood where the handle joins the bowl. The grain runs parallel to the lathe axis for strength. It was widely copied even before it was a project in my first book and video, but few people seemed to grasp that the belly of the bowl is wider than the opening and that this has to be turned. My wooden scoop is a sort of footless, sawn-off goblet, and it’s not quite as easy to make as it might look. You can vary the length of the handle-scoops for sugar or salt bowls are best with reasonably long handles, whereas a flour scoop likely to be dipping into a large store pot can have a short handle. Scoops generally look best when the internal depth is very slightly more than the diameter of a tulip-shaped bowl.
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